Participation Statement
MOUNTAINEERING SCOTLAND PARTICIPATION STATEMENT
“Climbing and mountaineering are activities with danger of personal injury and death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. It is up to the individual climber to assess the reliability of bolts or other equipment which may be in place. Falls sometimes occur due to holds breaking. You are responsible for your own actions and should not hold landowners liable for an accident, even if it happens climbing over a fence or dyke.”
Please read and understand the implications of this statement before climbing at Callander Crags.
“Climbing and mountaineering are activities with danger of personal injury and death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. It is up to the individual climber to assess the reliability of bolts or other equipment which may be in place. Falls sometimes occur due to holds breaking. You are responsible for your own actions and should not hold landowners liable for an accident, even if it happens climbing over a fence or dyke.”
Please read and understand the implications of this statement before climbing at Callander Crags.
GEOLOGY
Callander Crag is an escarpment formed by beds of conglomerate rock. These beds were laid down horizontally around 400 million years ago as river sediments, which were then transformed by pressure into solid rock. Huge earth movements in the intervening period have turned these beds into the vertical plane we see now. Geologists call this rock the Callander Craig Conglomerate: it consists of cobble- to pebble-sized pieces of white quartz, lava and other rock types in a coarse sandy matrix.
Callander Crag is an escarpment formed by beds of conglomerate rock. These beds were laid down horizontally around 400 million years ago as river sediments, which were then transformed by pressure into solid rock. Huge earth movements in the intervening period have turned these beds into the vertical plane we see now. Geologists call this rock the Callander Craig Conglomerate: it consists of cobble- to pebble-sized pieces of white quartz, lava and other rock types in a coarse sandy matrix.
HISTORY
As far as can be ascertained, there is no written record of rock-climbing having taken place on Callander Crag, despite its prominent and accessible position. Early explorers of many local crags Tam Low (Ochils MC) and George Shields (Creag Dubh MC) left no record of any attempts on Callander Crag, although rumour has it that local climber Will MacFarlane made exploratory ascents "back in the day". That the cliff was composed of conglomerate, covered in moss and lacking traditional protection must have discouraged pioneering climbers.
The potential of the crag as a sport-climbing venue became apparent only once the thick forestry at both top and bottom of the crag was clear-felled. The developers had a close look at the first section of the crag: loose flakes were levered off and an access path created to the bottom; and environmental and structural issues were examined. Funding for bolts was raised through a crowdfunding exercise in early 2016, including a very generous contribution from the Ochils Mountaineering Club, and the laborious task of wire-brushing the crag began. Bolting finally commenced in September 2016, with the first section, OMC Wall, completed in December.
As far as can be ascertained, there is no written record of rock-climbing having taken place on Callander Crag, despite its prominent and accessible position. Early explorers of many local crags Tam Low (Ochils MC) and George Shields (Creag Dubh MC) left no record of any attempts on Callander Crag, although rumour has it that local climber Will MacFarlane made exploratory ascents "back in the day". That the cliff was composed of conglomerate, covered in moss and lacking traditional protection must have discouraged pioneering climbers.
The potential of the crag as a sport-climbing venue became apparent only once the thick forestry at both top and bottom of the crag was clear-felled. The developers had a close look at the first section of the crag: loose flakes were levered off and an access path created to the bottom; and environmental and structural issues were examined. Funding for bolts was raised through a crowdfunding exercise in early 2016, including a very generous contribution from the Ochils Mountaineering Club, and the laborious task of wire-brushing the crag began. Bolting finally commenced in September 2016, with the first section, OMC Wall, completed in December.
ACCESS
The crag is approached from the A84 trunk road that runs through Callander. Where the A84 changes from Stirling Road to Main Street, turn north up Bracklinn Road, the minor road signed for “Bracklinn Falls, The Crags” and “Golf Course”. Take care with the right-angled bends at the old railway bridge. After 500 metres turn into the parking on the left signposted Callander Crags. Walk 200 metres west past a barrier along the forestry road, then turn right uphill on the big path marked with a red waymarker. Follow this uphill round several bends for 15-20 minutes until below the crag where a clear path goes off horizontally left beneath the cliffs. (If you arrive at a set of stone steps leading up to the top of the crag, then you’ve gone about 20 metres too far). 50 metres along this path, opposite a large tree, and with a fallen log pointing the direction, a smaller path leads off rightwards through birch saplings and undergrowth to the foot of the crag. The cleaned section is clearly visible from here. 6 figure Grid Reference: NN 629087 (62980879)
The crag is approached from the A84 trunk road that runs through Callander. Where the A84 changes from Stirling Road to Main Street, turn north up Bracklinn Road, the minor road signed for “Bracklinn Falls, The Crags” and “Golf Course”. Take care with the right-angled bends at the old railway bridge. After 500 metres turn into the parking on the left signposted Callander Crags. Walk 200 metres west past a barrier along the forestry road, then turn right uphill on the big path marked with a red waymarker. Follow this uphill round several bends for 15-20 minutes until below the crag where a clear path goes off horizontally left beneath the cliffs. (If you arrive at a set of stone steps leading up to the top of the crag, then you’ve gone about 20 metres too far). 50 metres along this path, opposite a large tree, and with a fallen log pointing the direction, a smaller path leads off rightwards through birch saplings and undergrowth to the foot of the crag. The cleaned section is clearly visible from here. 6 figure Grid Reference: NN 629087 (62980879)
EQUIPMENT
The crag is equipped with 15cm long glue-in bolts supplied by Bolt Products. Lower-offs are of the 2-bolt, chain and ring variety.
You will need a minimum 45 metre rope (knot end before lowering), 9 quickdraws, a cowstail/sling and 2 screwgate karabiners.
YOU ARE STRONGLY ADVISED TO WEAR A HELMET BOTH CLIMBING AND BELAYING, AND NOT STAND AROUND BENEATH THE CRAG UNNECCESSARILY
THE CLIMBING
The climbing is mostly delicate, on pebbles and pockets with the odd sharp-edged crack. Good footwork is helpful.As the routes are recently developed, there are still some snappy holds.
CRAG ETIQUETTE
As well as the usual observations about noise litter etc, it would be appreciated if climbers took a few moments to clean holds of moss and dirt on lead and descent. Feel free to use wire brushes that may be found at the bottom of the crag to extend the clean rock leftwards, BUT DO NOT ACCESS ROUTES FROM ABOVE- use the in-situ lower-offs. Red tape on the first bolt of a route indicates that it is not ready/safe to climb.
The crag is equipped with 15cm long glue-in bolts supplied by Bolt Products. Lower-offs are of the 2-bolt, chain and ring variety.
You will need a minimum 45 metre rope (knot end before lowering), 9 quickdraws, a cowstail/sling and 2 screwgate karabiners.
YOU ARE STRONGLY ADVISED TO WEAR A HELMET BOTH CLIMBING AND BELAYING, AND NOT STAND AROUND BENEATH THE CRAG UNNECCESSARILY
THE CLIMBING
The climbing is mostly delicate, on pebbles and pockets with the odd sharp-edged crack. Good footwork is helpful.As the routes are recently developed, there are still some snappy holds.
CRAG ETIQUETTE
As well as the usual observations about noise litter etc, it would be appreciated if climbers took a few moments to clean holds of moss and dirt on lead and descent. Feel free to use wire brushes that may be found at the bottom of the crag to extend the clean rock leftwards, BUT DO NOT ACCESS ROUTES FROM ABOVE- use the in-situ lower-offs. Red tape on the first bolt of a route indicates that it is not ready/safe to climb.